DIY Toadstool Backdrop with Door

This step-by-step tutorial for a DIY Toadstool Backdrop will help you achieve the perfect whimsical accent decor your event needs! With a real working door, your littles will enjoy playing with the toadstool backdrop while you enjoy endless photo opportunities.

There is a supply list at the end of this post that sources the exact items I used, if still available. Also included are the closest substitutes I could find online.

Note: This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. See my full disclosure here.

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DIY Toadstool Backdrop Tutorial

Step 1

Think through your design on paper. Trust me when I say a project will proceed with ease if you think through most of the logistics in advance.

I wanted the finished toadstool backdrop to be 6-feet tall, and I only wanted to use one 8-foot sheet of plywood to make the face of the backdrop. I am lucky to have two engineers for parents and they helped me with how to achieve my design. (thank you mom & dad!)

Below are two images of the blueprints used to create this DIY project. As you can see on the design sketch, we used the 2-feet that was cut off the short end of the plywood to make outer edges, or “wings”, of the cap. These wings can be folded in for transport.

Step 2

Measure, mark & cut plywood and vertical stiffeners. Then draw toadstool outline & trim to shape. Measure the 2-feet to be removed from the top (short end) of the plywood and cut using a circular saw. From that 2-foot section now removed from the bulk of the plywood, measure and cut two sections each 1-foot by 2-foot for your “wings”.

Place the “wings” next to the remaining 6×6 ft. section of plywood and draw your toadstool cap design. Draw your design with thick, easily visible lines. Using a jigsaw, cut all sections of the plywood to shape the toadstool cap. Sand edges of toadstool cap until smooth.

We chose to also draw the little door and use the jigsaw to remove it from the main plywood at this time, however you could prime your plywood before this step. See Step 4 for directions on marking and cutting door.

Measure and cut your vertical stiffeners that will be attached to the back of the plywood. Using two 8-foot 2x3s, measure 5-feet on each and cut. That will leave you with two 5-foot vertical stiffeners and one 3-foot to be used for the threshold support. The other remaining 3-foot section can be used as scrap later.

Step 3

Prime all sections of plywood & finish with a light sanding. Prime vertical stiffeners & threshold support. Both the front and back sides of the plywood need a coat of primer paint. You should still be able to see your design lines through the primer paint on the plywood. Once your primer is dry, give the front of the plywood a light sanding.

Step 4

Trim out the little door with its heart detail. If you have not yet removed your little door from the main section of plywood, do so at this time. Measure and mark the bottom of the plywood at 15-inches, then from that mark measure another 18-inches for the door. There should be 15-inches remaining between the door mark and the other edge of the wood. On the center line of your plywood, measure 38-inches from the bottom of the wood – this is the top of your door.

Create an arch at the top of the door. Use a piece of string (I used my ear protection buds) to draw the arch by holding one end of the string on the middle line 9-inches from the top of the door, with a pencil on the other end of the string. Keeping the string taught, move the pencil in an arch from the sides of the door, up to the top of the door.

Now is also a great time to draw and add the heart cutout detail to the little door. Use a drill to give yourself a starting hole, then use the jigsaw to remove the heart shape. Sand or file the edges of the heart until rounded and smooth.

Step 5

Attached the “wings” with the piano hinges. With the back of the plywood facing up, ensure the “wings” are snug against the main section of plywood. Use two piano hinges per wing. The spacing between the hinges doesn’t need to be exact, but place the piano hinges a few inches from either edge of the plywood. Align and attach the piano hinges exactly on the gap between the two pieces of plywood.

If the screw tips stick out of the front side of the plywood, use an angle grinder or sander to remove the tips.

Step 6

Attached the 2×3 stiffeners and threshold support  to the back of the plywood. As far as placement for these stiffeners, let the left stiffener (if viewing from the front) be a little bit visible in the door cutout from the front. This will give the little door something to rest against while it is closed, similar to a door-jam. The right stiffener should be flush or a tad inside of the cutout, not visible from the front.

Use clamps to hold the stiffeners in place while drilling the pilot holes. Install screws from the FRONT of the plywood, inset these screws a bit. We used 8 screws into each vertical stiffener, and 10 screws on the threshold support with 5 on each side of the door. Spackle the holes made by insetting the screws and sand spackle once cured.

Step 7

Paint the toadstool & little door. Technically we painted after step 8, however it is recommended to paint before step 8. If you do not want to paint the entire toadstool now, just add paint to where the little door hinges will be. (this is what we actually did due to the time of day) If painting all at once, I recommend painting from the top down, beginning with the red paint.

Note: Don’t forget the gills of the mushroom on the lefthand side! I almost did this and had to add them the day-of Ainsley’s fairy birthday party!

Step 8

Attach the little door & the door handle. The side of the door hinge that attaches to the main section of plywood will be screwed through the plywood and into the stiffener behind the plywood, but on the door side of the hinge, the plywood doesn’t have that reenforcement. We cut two scrap pieces of plywood (about 2-inch by 3-inch) and used them behind the door side of the hinges.

Note: Don’t forget to attach your door handle!

Step 9

Make triangle back supports & secure to toadstool backdrop. This is where my dad stepped in and crafted removable triangle back supports.

We had old 2x4s laying around so we used them for the 5-foot verticals on this support system, however 2x2s would be sufficient for the verticals. A 2×4 would be ideal for the 3-foot base of each support, as used here.

I wanted something that could be detached for transportation, but was sturdy enough to support the backdrop. There were a few different ideas for how to attach the supports to the toadstool, but he finally decided on using bolts that went through the 5-foot verticals of the triangle back supports and attached to the vertical stiffeners of the toadstool.

These triangle back supports will also get primed and painted, it just hasn’t happened yet!

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Final Product: Toadstool Backdrop for Fairy Birthday Party

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Supply List

The first number is the count required, listed within the parentheses. The abbreviation for inch is “ and it will be used throughout. Example: (4) Screws, 1.5″ = four screws at length one and a half inches.

Toadstool Face

• (1) Plywood sheet, 4×8-foot (I used 1/2-inch thickness to save on weight, but thicker plywood would also work)
• (2) 2×3 Lumber, 8-foot (used for vertical stiffeners & threshold on back of plywood)
• (30) Screws, 1.5” flathead wood screws (for attaching plywood back stiffeners & threshold)
• (4) Piano Hinges, 3” with supplied screws (Note: you must use the supplied screws as they will sit flush within hinge HOWEVER these screws may be too long for the depth of your plywood, I used the angle grinder to take off the screw point after installation) – https://amzn.to/4jIa6SN
• (2) Door Hinges with supplied screws – https://amzn.to/4jFHUzP
• Door Handle with supplied screws – https://amzn.to/4d6H5xM

Triangle Back Supports

• (2) 2×4 lumber, 8-foot
• (4) Bolts, 5/16” x 5”
• (4) Washers – 1 1/4” width (center to fit bolts)
• (4) Butterly Nuts (size to fit bolts)
• (28) Screws, 1 1/2” flathead screws

Paint & Other

• Primer Paint – https://amzn.to/3RRl9wJ
• Red Paint – Benjamin Moore Spiced Pumpkin 034
• White Paint – Benjamin Moore Pensacola Pink 1184
• Pink Paint – Benjamin Moore Rosetone 1186
• Gold Paint – Benjamin Moore Camel Back 1103
• Sandbags or weights to steady Backdrop in case of light breeze (we used heavy chains) NOTE: THIS BACKDROP IS NOT TO BE USED ON WINDY DAY

Tools

• Eye Protection – https://amzn.to/4iOBr4A
• Ear Protection – https://amzn.to/3SuxN4V
• Carpenter Pencil – https://amzn.to/3Smknb8
• Measuring Tape – https://amzn.to/3YxQRD7
• Utility Folding Table (https://amzn.to/3EXEQA2) or Saw Horses (https://amzn.to/438fPKI)
• Clamps – https://amzn.to/4k41jdB
• Circular Saw – https://amzn.to/44spAFM
• Jigsaw – https://amzn.to/4jSpJHp
• Drill – https://amzn.to/3RTZIv0
• Drill Bits – https://amzn.to/3Z8en9R
• Angle Grinder – https://amzn.to/4iOCaTm
• Sander – https://amzn.to/435uTsz
• Metal File – https://amzn.to/4jP74wi
• Spackle – https://amzn.to/4jFEJrT
• Putty-knife – https://amzn.to/44XlHZD
• Paint Brush – https://amzn.to/3YVISjt
• Painters Tape – https://amzn.to/4339j7X
• Paint Drop Cloth – https://amzn.to/4ka1tQU

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Conclusion

I hope there is something you were able to take away from this DIY Toadstool Backdrop tutorial. Remember to Pin this post for when you are ready for next steps.

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